Explore Mexico's Unique Blends and Wine Regions
This issue was published on September 13, 2023.
Happy Wine Wednesday!
Today we’re heading to Mexico for a quick overview of their wine regions before chatting with Lola Llamas, co-founder and owner of Llamas Family Wines and Las del Vino in Napa Valley.
So pour yourself a glass and let’s get our wine nerd on!
Mexico
Unique Blends, Faux Nebbiolos, and High Elevation
When most people think of Mexico, they probably don’t think about wine. Tequila, mezcal, Kahlúa, and Mexican beer get plenty of love, but most people may not know that Mexico also produces wine!
There’s a small but rapidly growing wine industry in the country – which is actually the first place that vineyards were planted in North America. Today, we’re going to do a quick overview of the different wine regions and the types of wine being produced by Mexico (in case you want to book a Mexico trip that involves more wine and less poolside piña coladas…)
Let’s start with those first vineyards that were planted here.
Following the Spanish conquest of 1521, Spanish settlers were ordered to plant Spanish grapes in Mexico as they found the indigenous grapes to be too acidic, and in 1597, Casa Madero was established in Santa Maria de las Parras as the first winery in the New World (it still exists today!). Even with a long history of winemaking, it wasn’t until the 70’s that Mexican wineries started modernizing and the 80’s that they started focusing on quality after they began having to compete with wine imports after a new trade agreement was signed. In the 90’s, young winemakers began building on the success of established wineries to create what is now a rapidly growing fine wine industry.
Today, there are about 7,700 acres of vineyards in Mexico with wine being produced in three main areas: The Baja Peninsula, just south of California in the northwest, Coahuila, Durango, and Chihuahua, just south of Texas and New Mexico, and Zacatecas, Aguascalientes, and Queretaro in central Mexico. While a few large-scale wineries like L.A. Cetto dominate production, almost all of the other wineries have very small productions and make less than 10,000 cases each year.
Before you ask – yes, Mexico is hot, so it might seem out of bounds for ideal winemaking. However, it’s dry (just like your hair, grapes do not like humidity) and the vineyards are located at high altitude for cooler air and cooler evenings. In fact, a lot of the Mexican vineyards are at some of the highest elevation in the world!
We’ll be focusing mainly on Baja, as it’s where over 75% of the wine production happens and almost all of the Mexican wine you’ll find in the U.S. is from this region. About 90 minutes from the U.S. border, a little over a thousand miles long, and with a cool breeze from the Pacific Ocean, the Baja Peninsula is unsurprisingly similar in topography and climate to California. The region is dry and sandy – so dry, in fact, that you’ll pretty much only see greenery in the vineyards.
The Sierra de Baja California mountain range divides the peninsula in half lengthwise, and most (if not all) of the over 150 vineyards here are on the west, ocean-side of the mountains. The climate is similar to Napa Valley and southern Rhône, but with a stronger cooling influence from the ocean. The major wine making sub-regions/valleys include San Antonio, Ojos Negros, Santo Tomás, San Vicente, and, the most prominent, Valle de Guadalupe.
Valle de Guadalupe has quickly become a thriving tourist destination, with many calling it the Napa Valley of Mexico. The region is about the same size as the Chianti Classico region in Italy, with many wineries along the unpaved Ruta del Vino (“wine route”). The three main grapes here are tempranillo, nebbiolo, and cabernet sauvignon, although you’ll also find syrah, merlot, cab franc, malbec, pinot noir, mourvédre, grenache, and petite syrah among the red wines, and chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, chenin blanc, and viognier among the whites.
You’ll rarely find single varietal wines here, with most of the wines being unique blends rarely found in other countries (more on that in a second). The wines from Valle de Guadalupe tend to be full-bodied, ripe, and jammy, although they’re also known for having a minerality and saline-like note that’s attributed to the sandy soil.
Another interesting thing about Baja is its nebbiolo. Typically, nebbiolo (famous in Barolo and Barbaresco wines in Piedmont, Italy) is high in acid, delicate, and with a lighter, translucent color like pinot noir. In Baja, the nebbiolo is inky, jammy, and has black-fruit notes – basically the opposite. So...what happened?
We don’t know.
Some of the grapes have been genetically tested and come back as another Piedmont grape, Lambrusca di Alessandria (no relation to nebbiolo or the bubbly red lambrusco). Some say that the nebbiolo planted in Baja are actually a few different grape varietals that came from Piedmont without identification tags in the 40’s. And, to make it even more complicated, there is certified nebbiolo planted in Baja which has the expected, Italian nebbiolo qualities. Unfortunately, most producers don’t want to risk being able to call their wines nebbiolo and do not test their grapes so at this time, a nebbiolo from Baja may or may not be…well, nebbiolo.
If you do buy wine from Baja or make a wine trip to Baja, just keep that in mind so that you’re not totally surprised (or worse, disappointed) when you get a ‘nebbiolo.’
This brings us back to…
Unlike Old World wine regions which have strict systems and rules on wine production, there are no formal appellations or labeling restrictions here. Most wines are simply labeled “product of Mexico” with some noting the valley where the grapes grew. This also means that the varietals listed on the label may or may not be listed in the order of prominence in the blend (for example, a label listing nebbiolo, cab, syrah in that order could actually be 80% syrah). The terminology used can also vary, like grenache vs. garnacha, or rosé vs. rosado. While this might be frustrating if you’re trying to figure out exactly what you’re drinking, it’s the reason why you’ll find fun, distinctive blends that you can’t find anywhere else!
And last but not least, a few wine terms that will be useful for your next Mexico trip:
Varietales: a single varietal wine
Combinadas: wine blends
Vinos Espumoso: Sparkling wines (literally “foamy” wines)
I’m planning a trip to check out Valle de Guadalupe, so let me know if you’ve been! I want to hear all of your recommendations before I go explore “the Napa Valley of Mexico.”
Lola Llamas
Co-owner of Llamas Family Wines and Las del Vino
Lola Llamas, co-founder of Llamas Family Wines and Las del Vino, with partner Miriam Puentes
Merobebe
You grew up in Napa Valley with a grandfather who worked in the vineyards. Did you grow up talking about and drinking wine?
Lola Llamas
I actually didn't grow up drinking wine or really talking about it. Even though my grandfather and other family members worked in the wine industry, the only wine I remember seeing at home were jugs of Carlos Rossi wine! I didn't get into wine until about 2006 or 2007.
My grandfather passed away when I was 18, so sadly I didn't get to enjoy a glass of wine with him. I recall visiting weekly with my mom and having lunch with him. I always enjoyed his stories about living in the valley and working in the vineyards, his sense of humor, and his wonderful laugh.
Merobebe
You worked as a paralegal before starting your wine label. What inspired the switch into wine? Was there a specific moment where you thought, I want to make wine!
Lola Llamas
I'm still working full time at a law firm. I haven't left my day job, yet but hope to in the near future. The wine job is definitely a lot of fun and has allowed me to meet some amazing friends and clients.
My husband is the one that really introduced me to wines. I always enjoyed my cocktails and tequila but was never really interested in drinking wine. He grew up as a migrant farm worker and wanted to do something to honor his family who worked, and continue to work, in the vineyards and other aspects of the wine industry. We started our label in 2009 and have learned so much as we have grown our small company.
Lola Llamas (left) with Miriam Puentes, co-founder of Las del Vino
Merobebe
I'm fascinated by the Executive Wine MBA program you did. What specifically do you learn about the wine industry as part of the MBA program?
Lola Llamas
The Sonoma State MBA program is tailored for individuals already working in the wine industry. You learn the business side of wine: finance, sales, marketing, etc. It offered many classes that you would take in a traditional MBA, but focused on the wine industry.
It was a 17 month accelerated program, all day Friday and Saturday, every other week. There were 27 of us originally with 2 dropping and 25 of us graduating.
To this day, I don't know how I made it through. My classmates became like members of my family and many of us remain close. We try to have reunions once or twice a year. The international trip was life changing! I had never been to Europe before and the experience still remains one of the best things I've ever done.
Merobebe
What's unique about the wine business?
Lola Llamas
The wine business isn't just a business, it's our lifestyle; we live and breathe it every day. It's what connects us to other people, whether it's our colleagues who have similar stories and struggles, or a client – bringing them in and sharing our world with them. They have an impact on us and hopefully we have an impact on them. It's about leaving a mark.
Merobebe
You started your wine label with your husband, Oscar, at Llamas Family Wines before starting a new venture, Las del Vino, with your friend Miriam Puentes. What made you want to start a second winemaking venture, and what are the differences between the two?
Lola Llamas
Miriam and spent a lot of time together during the pandemic. Once the shelter in place order took effect, our families were in the same bubble. She and I would take walks and talk and thought it'd be a great idea to start promoting our wines together on a separate Instagram. That's how Las del Vino was born.
As we got into it, the idea of sparkling wine came up and, since neither of us offered it under our own brands, we decided to create the Las Amigas brand. The Honrama and Llamas brands are the brands we started with our husbands (red, white and late harvest wines).
The Las Amigas brand consists of two sparkling wines right now, cuvee and rose. When we started Las Amigas, it was important for us to show the importance of collaboration and women supporting women.
Merobebe
Have there been challenges you've faced as a woman (especially a woman of color) in the world of wine making?
Lola Llamas
I think there are definitely challenges, not only with trying to launch the Las Amigas brand but also with my family brand, Llamas. With Llamas it's been difficult to get our name out there. We find that when people come to Napa, many people either want well-known, big winery names or very high-end cult brands. They aren't always open to trying a small, Latino owned brand. Over the years, we've been able to build a small following that allows us to travel to our clients and do wine dinners/tastings. Those clients refer friends to us and those friends do and that is what has allowed us to have some success.
With Las Amigas, the timing was not ideal. We launched during a global pandemic so we couldn't have a real launch party or any events. It was just word of mouth and social media. Our family brands are not as well known as other family brands in Napa Valley; we're not scions. We've had a difficult time getting our name out there. We were really fortunate to meet the owner of a champagne lounge in Napa that started her business around the time we started Las del Vino. She's been amazing and supportive, and has carried our Las Amigas Cuvee pretty much since she opened. Some of our friends who own restaurants helped us as well by having our cuvee on their wine lists. It's been a fun venture for us. We've met some great ladies who are so excited to hear about our brand and share it with their friends.
Merobebe
How has your family's Latin heritage affected your approach in winemaking or the industry in general?
Lola Llamas
My Latin heritage has given me a reason to work harder. My partner and I came together during the pandemic with the idea that we could do something that would make a difference. Not only did we want to be positive Latina role models for other women, we wanted to set an example for our young daughters. The wine business is tough, but this venture has allowed us to meet wonderful people who have been very supportive of our brand.
Merobebe
How can the industry or market better support small, independent wineries?
Lola Llamas
I would say first and foremost, just give us a chance. Place an order, try the wine and tell your friends and family about it. Many people come to the Napa Valley and have their itinerary set, but I'd tell them that if you have the opportunity to visit a small, family-owned Latino brand you should do that – and most likely you'll be happy that you did.
Learn more about Llamas Family Wines here or order some Las Amigas cuvee here!
Get a wine-related movie or book pairing for your weekend.
Today’s pairing is The Dark Vineyard by Martin Walker
The second installment following the acclaimed Bruno, Chief of Police (also delightful), this novel set in the French countryside follows two young men in the wine industry competing over Jacqueline, a wine student. Chief Bruno, a policeman and former soldier, becomes involved when two suspicious deaths arise after a group of winemakers descend upon the town. Packed with intense drama, you’ll have plenty of fun reading this suspenseful mystery that The Wall Street Journal described as “captivating.”
See the reviews and buy The Dark Vineyard from a local bookstore here.
That’s all for today!
As always, thank you for reading. Don’t forget to hit me up at cheers[at]merobebe[dot]com with your thoughts (and your Valle de Guadalupe recommendations)!
Cheers,
Megumi