Meet Ashlee Cuneo: Sommelier and General Manager at Miraflores Winery
This interview has been edited for clarity and was featured in the June 7, 2023 issue of Merobebe.
Merobebe
What's your go-to bottle of wine when you want to treat yourself?
Ashlee Cuneo
Bubbles are always my go-to! My absolute favorite California sparkling is Schramsberg Brut Rose, which I love for any occasion.
Merobebe
If you could have any job in the wine industry besides your current one, what would it be?
Ashlee Cuneo
I love spending time in our production facility with our amazing winemaking team and have often thought about how fun it would be to further explore the “behind the scenes” side of winemaking. The idea of helping to create something like a beautiful bottle of wine is intriguing and so different from any area of the wine industry I’ve worked in before.
Merobebe
What's your favorite wine-themed movie or book?
Ashlee Cuneo
I would have to say Bottle Shock for both.
Merobebe
How has growing up in Santa Rosa shaped your life and journey into working with wine? Did you always know that you'd end up in the wine industry?
Ashlee Cuneo
Growing up in Santa Rosa definitely shaped my life when it comes to working in the wine industry – though while I was growing up, this industry was the furthest thing from my mind. Surprisingly, I had always seen myself as a writer for a magazine in New York City!
I always had an appreciation for wine, though, thanks to both my parents and grandparents. From a young age, there would always be conversation at the dinner table about wine in some shape or form. My dad and my grandparents would discuss “the minerality” of a pinot grigio they once had with an amazing Italian dinner or talk about being on the hunt for that one perfectly rich and powerful Napa cabernet sauvignon (that also wouldn’t break the bank!).
My grandmother to this day loves Russian River chardonnays, which I inherited from her. I always knew that we lived in a special place, even as a little kid. Whenever we would leave town and drive back home through the Valley of the Moon (in between Sonoma and Kenwood), I would feel a huge sense of “ahhh, I’m so happy we’re home.” To this day, I still feel that comfortable familiarity when I drive through that area, which I still consider to be the most beautiful vineyard scenery in Sonoma County.
Merobebe
You’ve said that you believe wine has a "soul." What do you mean?
Ashlee Cuneo
I consider wine to be a living and breathing entity, even after the grapes have been plucked from the living vine. From grape to bottle, wine expresses itself almost as a human being does. It’s dynamic like a person and, depending on its age, will show itself in different ways. Like people, it’s important to take the time to get to know each wine to appreciate all of the facets and individuality it has.
Merobebe
What is involved with being a GM for a winery, and what are some unique aspects of working at Miraflores?
Ashlee Cuneo
Being a GM is being the wearer of many hats: gardener, HR manager, wine writer, marketing coordinator, equipment management, operations coordinator, and Sommelier all in one. One of the aspects I love about working at Miraflores is that I have the opportunity of being involved in our blending sessions alongside Victor Alvarez (our winery owner) and winemaking team before the wines go into bottles. This job is never boring and constantly keeps me on my toes!
Merobebe
You've worked in a variety of roles in the industry, including wine director at a Michelin-star restaurant to sales and distribution. How has your experience in these different roles prepared you to work as a GM for a winery?
Ashlee Cuneo
When I first started working at Miraflores, my experience as a Sommelier really helped me in many ways, especially with the food and wine pairing lunches that Miraflores offers every summer. I decided that I would be the one to pair each of our wines with the chefs’ menus rather than hiring Sommeliers the way that we used to. This wasn’t because it’s more cost effective, but because I really enjoy pairing food with wine. It is one of my favorite things about working at this winery. We create so many food-friendly wines which is an absolute dream.
My sales experience comes into play with guiding our tasting room staff when selling wine to customers, as well as figuring out pricing for our wholesale markets and helping advise local restaurants on the best wine for their menus.
Merobebe
What are some unique food and wine pairings you’ve done for the Miraflores summer lunches?
Ashlee Cuneo
One of the most unique and memorable food and wine pairings I have ever done was actually not at Miraflores but at Chez TJ restaurant, in Mountain View, CA. I paired a cheese plate, which had a wide array of different types of cheese, with a dry Tokaji, also known as Furmint. This particular wine was incredibly earthy, with notes of dusty mushroom and cheese rind which went absolutely perfectly with the cheese plate. It was not a wine that I would necessarily recommend to enjoy on its own, but it was one of the most unforgettable wine pairings I’ve ever done.
For Miraflores’ Pairings lunches, I would say that the most unique wine pairings happen when I use the off-dry Estate Muscat Canelli. Most would assume that Muscat Canelli is an overly sweet wine — not really a wine to be taken seriously but I love using it with a wide array of cuisine because it is such a chameleon when it is paired. The nose is so heady and floral that it almost comes off as perfume-esque in the glass but on the palate, the finish is almost completely dry. It’s definitely a surprising wine. I love pairing this wine with Asian and Indian cuisine, especially dishes with big herbaceous notes and aromatics like lemongrass, cilantro, curry, and basil. It’s also incredible with tropical fruit dishes and fruit salads. For example, I paired this wine with Thai Coconut Chicken Soup and it was incredible together!
Merobebe
What’s your general approach to food and wine pairing? Any tips or guidelines you can share with us?
Ashlee Cuneo
My most general approach to wine and food pairing is either comparing or contrasting the flavor of the wine to the flavor of the food. For example, if I was to pair a rich pasta dish like linguini and clams with a lemon-butter white wine sauce then I can go two directions: either pair it with a light, crisp wine like a pinot grigio or with a richer style of wine to match the dish, such as a lightly oaked chardonnay. Both wines go nicely with the dish but it depends on many factors: the guest’s preferences, what other dishes they might be enjoying with the pasta, what course the pasta is at within the meal, etc.
Merobebe
What are some challenges you've faced as a woman in the male-dominated world of wine?
Ashlee Cuneo
I’ve been lucky to have several incredible women, as well as men, as mentors in this industry. Breaking into the wine world, especially at a Michelin starred restaurant in the San Francisco Bay Area is a daunting task and thankfully I’ve had excellent guidance along the way and have not had to face too many challenges that specifically relate to being a woman in this industry.
But I do believe there is a great deal of ego and sometimes attitude involved with the wine industry in general, which is very apparent when starting out. Navigating this was more challenging than anything else.
Merobebe
And last but not least...what do you love most about wine? Drinking, working, any and all of it!
Ashlee Cuneo
I truly love everything about wine. It’s easy for me to enjoy as a way to unwind and relax, but also in a more structured, professional setting. I would say the most fascinating part of wine for me is to discover the way a region’s terroir affects the flavor profile of each vintage. Before I take that first sip of a wine that I am tasting for the first time, a little feeling of excitement always comes across me that I don’t think will ever go away.