Napa Valley: The Hot and Cold, Highs and Lows
This issue was published on July 11, 2023.
Happy Wine Wednesday!
I hope you all enjoyed the holiday weekend (and short work week) last week!We're exploring Napa Valley today before talking to Jessica Marie Taylor, the head sommelier and assistant general manager at Michelin-starred restaurant Maude in Beverly Hills. So pour yourself a glass and let’s get our wine nerd on!
Napa Valley
The Wines That Beat France
Napa Valley may be the very first place that pops into your mind when you think of American wine country. And for good reason! It’s known as one of the best places to find gorgeous wine not just in the United States, but around the world. The views aren’t bad either.
My point being, I can’t have a wine newsletter and not talk about Napa Valley at some point! But don’t worry, this isn’t going to just be a love letter to Napa and its cabs. We’ll talk briefly about Napa’s history, the historic Paris Wine Tasting of 1976 that catapulted Napa’s reputation in the wine world, and then the geography of Napa and its 16 (!!!) sub-AVAs (American Viticultural Areas).
Let’s get started.Explorer and pioneer George Calvert Yount (as in Yountville, CA and the Yountville AVA) is credited as being the first to plant grapes in Napa in the late 1830’s after being granted almost 12,000 acres by Mexican General Mariano G. Vallejo as repayment for his services. When one of his three granddaughters got married in 1864, he gifted the couple about 1,000 acres of land which the groom then dedicated to winemaking. That groom was Thomas Rutherford (as in Rutherford, CA and the Rutherford AVA) who would continue on to establish himself as a high-quality grower and producer of wines.
Side note: I didn’t realize getting thousands of acres of wine country as a wedding gift was an option when I got married last fall…Can I go back and add that to my registry on Zola?!
Commercial production didn’t start until 1858 when the British John Patchett, who trained as a brewmaster in Pennsylvania (and was then lured by the California Gold Rush), began selling wine for $2 per gallon. However, many credit Charles Krug as being Napa Valley’s first winery – he began selling wine in St. Helena a few years later in 1861. His success sparked a huge wave of growth and, by 1889, there were more than 140 wineries including household names such as Schramsberg (the White House’s sparkling wine of choice), Beringer, and Inglenook (built by Finnish sea captain and fur trader Gustave Neibaum before he sold it to film director Francis Ford Coppola). Obviously, there were some struggles in Napa Valley around 1920 - 1933 (*cough Prohibition cough*), during The Great Depression, and then World War II before Napa's wine industry began to grow and thrive again around the 1950s. However, it wasn’t until the late 70s that Napa became known worldwide.
Enter: The Paris Wine Tasting of 1976For those of you who have watched a very hippie Chris Pine and brilliant Alan Rickman in the 2008 dramedy Bottle Shock, you already know this story.
The Paris Wine Tasting (also known as the Judgement of Paris) was a wine contest organized by British wine merchant Steven Spurrier and his colleague, where French judges would blind taste wines in Paris. The competition included the highest quality Chardonnays and red wines (Bordeaux from France and cabernet sauvignon from Napa), and most expected France to easily win in each category – including Steven Spurrier, who only sold French wines.
In a huge upset, the Napa wines were the best rated in each category, catapulting Napa into the wine world and solidifying its reputation as a producer of world-class wines! It became California’s first AVA in 1981 and then, of course, the (well-deserved) fame and respect came with some price increases. The first California wine to cost $100 was made in 1989 (by Diamond Creek), $200 in 1994 (also by Diamond Creek), and $300 in 2006 (by Harlan Estate). So what makes Napa Valley so great for wine?
About a 2 hour drive north from San Francisco and shaped kind of like a banana, the valley is actually quite small. It starts at San Pablo Bay and stretches about 30 miles up to Mount Saint Helena, flanked on each side by mountain ranges – Vaca Mountains to the east and Mayacamas Mountains to the west. Even within this small area, the geographic history (from volcanic eruptions, to the crashing of the North American and Pacific Plates, to the flooding and receding of the Napa River) has left a unique collection of diverse soils. To put it into perspective, scientists categorize all of the world’s soil into 12 different orders. Napa has 6 of them – with each having their own variations and differences!
Combined with an irregular topography of valleys and canyons and mountains and each winemaker's independent winemaking style, you can find wines from estates right next to each other that taste completely different.
For those that have visited California before, you’ll know that it’s always important to have layers with you throughout the day. Even if it’s hot during the day, you may get chilly in the evening. The scientific term for this is diurnal temperature fluctuation and in Napa, temperatures at night can be 30 or even 40 degrees lower than the day (in Fahrenheit)! Temperatures vary even within the valley itself. For example, someone wine tasting on the hills to the east may be basking in the sun while someone in the west is wishing they brought a sweater. A hotel guest near Calistoga in the north could be stripping down to a bathing suit at the pool, while someone by the cooler San Pablo Bay in the south is looking forward to warming up in the hot tub.
From north to south, east to west, mountain high to valley low, the climate in each small section of Napa Valley is unique. Wherever you are, though, the cool breeze from the Pacific Ocean nearby, the long, hot summers, and cool-but-not-freezing winters creates the perfect environment for grapes. Let’s talk a little bit about these different mini climates.
The Napa Valley AVA is divided into 16 sub-AVAs, each with its own unique characteristics, microclimates, elevation, and soil composition. Don’t worry, we aren’t going to get into the details of all 16, but I do want to touch on some of the more notable AVAs and what they’re known for.Some of the oldest AVAs are the lower hillside and valley floor AVAs, including the well-known Rutherford (known for their “Rutherford Dust”), Oakville, Stag’s Leap District, and St. Helena.
These areas spread out north and south from the towns of Rutherford and Oakville in the middle of the valley. Stag’s Leap District is about the size of NYC’s Central Park and is located in the south-east corner of the valley, while St. Helena hugs the western foothills and is only about a mile wide from east to west. These AVAs are most known for their fantastic cabernet sauvignon, and some of the most historic and famous Napa wineries are here, including –
Oakville: Far Niente, Harlan, Groth, Opus One, Silver Oak, and Robert Mondavi
Rutherford: Caymus, Cakebread Cellars, Quintessa, Scarecrow, and Inglenook
Stag’s Leap District: Stag’s Leap, Silverado, Chimney Rock, and Clos du Val
St. Helena: Corison, Spotteswoode, Crocker & Starr, Vineyard 29, and Joseph Phelps Vineyard (you can see our interview with daughter Lynn Phelps Finch here)
The mountain AVAs are known for their elegant yet structured and concentrated wines. At elevations of up to 2,400 feet, the grapes are able to ripen slowly in long hours of sunlight above the fog everyday. The shallow and infertile soils here also lead to smaller vines with even smaller grapes, meaning a larger skin-to-juice ratio, meaning high tannins and more structure! Some of the prestigious AVAs in the mountains include –
Howell Mountain: Dunn, O’Shaughnessy, and Ladera are known for their cabernet sauvignons while Beringer is known for their merlots
Mount Veeder: Mount Veeder and Mayacamas are known for their cabs, while Lagier Meredith is known for their syrahs, and Rudd for their sauvignon blanc
Diamond Mountain District: Diamond Creek is known for their cabs
Spring Mountain District: Cain, Pride, Newton, and Lokoya are known for their cabs, Ridge’s York Creek is known for their zinfandels, and Stony Hill’s creates some legendary California chardonnay
Another AVA that you may have heard of includes Carneros, which is actually between Napa and Sonoma county at the southern tip of Napa Valley. This AVA of about 8,000 acres was once filled with sheep (carneros means “rams” in Spanish) and benefits from its proximity to San Pablo Bay. A funnel of cool ocean breezes and fog blows through Carneros, creating a sunny yet cool environment for the grapes.
Known for pinot noirs and chardonnays, the wines here are beautifully balanced and complex. The area also makes fantastic sparkling wines (note: Champagne is made from pinot noir, chardonnay, and pinot meunier), with famous wineries like Domaine Chandon, Mumm Napa Valley, and Schramsberg specializing in the beautiful bubbles from this region. Other famous wineries from Carneros include Cuvaison Carneros Estate, Etude, HdV, Hyde Vineyard, Saintsbury, and Hudson Vineyards.
The other AVAs that we didn’t get to touch on are –
Atlas Peak: A cooler AVA known for chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon
Calistoga: A warm/hot area known for cabernet sauvignon, zinfandel, syrah, and petite sirah
Chiles Valley: A warmer area known for cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, and zinfandel
Coombsville: A cooler area closer to San Pablo Bay known for cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay, merlot, syrah, pinot noir
Oak Knoll: A moderate to cool area known for cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay, merlot, sauvignon blanc, and riesling
Wild Horse Valley: The coolest AVA in Napa Valley due to its elevation and proximity to San Pablo Bay is known for its pinot noir and chardonnay
Yountville: Named after our pioneer friend George Yount, this AVA with a moderate climate is known for its cabernet sauvignon and merlot
Phew. Okay. Is anyone else overwhelmed by this?
My point is: Napa Valley has a lot of fantastic wines from a lot of diverse, fantastic sub-AVAs!
Take this as an opportunity (excuse?) to re-explore Napa Valley. Grab some cabernet sauvignons from different AVAs and try them side-by-side! Microwave some popcorn and some Carneros chardonnay and watch Bottle Shock.
Book a long weekend to Napa Valley and visit a different AVA each day (okay, maybe you’d need more than just a long weekend for this one…).
Jessica Marie Taylor
Head Sommelier and Assistant General Manager at Maude
This interview was edited for clarity.
Merobebe
What’s your go-to wine varietal or region?
Jessica Marie Taylor
As a sommelier, it’s my job to discern all wines equally and fairly, so I make it a point to try as many under-the-radar varieties and regions as possible. That said, Italian wines were what really made me start falling in love with wine as a consumer!
Merobebe
What's your favorite wine-themed movie or book?
Jessica Marie Taylor
It's not a traditional wine movie, but Wine Country is hilarious!
Merobebe
If you could have any celebrity as a personal sommelier, who would it be and why?
Jessica Marie Taylor
Definitely LeBron James. I don't know if you know, but he's a huge wine-o and is always enjoying fabulous bottles.
Merobebe
How did you become interested in wine, and what inspired you to pursue a career as a sommelier and restaurant manager?
Jessica Marie Taylor
I first started drinking wine when I studied abroad in Spain and really loved it as a consumer. While I was working as a server and bartender, I was initially trying to maximize my time and check averages [note: the average amount your customers spend] – it's easier to open 2 bottles of wine than it is to mix 10 different cocktails!I started studying the wine list at the restaurant I worked at and little by little started growing my knowledge. Others around me began to encourage me to seek my certification and after years of making excuses, I finally signed up for the classes. I started having some success when, of course, COVID hit, but I did get my first management position during that time. After COVID related layoffs, I finally landed as the wine purchaser at a private member's club in downtown Los Angeles where I ran the entire beverage program.
Merobebe
What is your favorite part of working as a wine director, as opposed to being a sommelier or restaurant manager?
Jessica Marie Taylor
I like the flexibility of making the decisions. I get to taste with all the distributors and make the best decisions for the business, focusing on wines that will enhance the cuisine. Where I work now [at Michelin-starred Maude in Beverly Hills], we have a 9 course Chef's Tasting menu with 2 optional wine pairings, so that's a lot of wine that I am in charge of. The perks of running the wine program also include distributors inviting me to tastings. I have the opportunity to learn about and taste some premiere wines from around the world.
Merobebe
What challenges have you faced as a woman in the male-dominated field of sommeliers?
Jessica Marie Taylor
I honestly have had the privilege of training with women and in positions where women are accepted as leaders. I find more sexism from guests than from others in my field, who are surprised that not only am I a woman but a fairly young woman to have the knowledge and experience that I do.
Merobebe
How do you think the wine industry can better address issues of accessibility and affordability for a wider range of customers?
Jessica Marie Taylor
That's a tricky question because the business of winemaking isn't a cheap one. There's the actual farming, then the fermentation process, the aging process (which can take years in some cases)...
Merobebe
What other wine adventures are you pursuing?
Jessica Marie Taylor
I recently started building my own business, a hybrid of restaurant-consulting and consumer events. I haven't launched the webpage yet, but you can find it on Instagram at @Better_Call_Somm. My personal Instagram, also filled with wine content, is @JessicaTaylorLA.
Get a wine-related movie or book pairing for your weekend.
Today’s pairing is Wine Country, a 2019 comedy on Netflix co-produced and directed by the fantastic and hilarious Amy Poehler herself.
With an absolutely stellar cast including Maya Rudolph, Tina Fey, and Rachel Dratch, the movie follows a group of women who decide to celebrate a 50th birthday with a trip to Napa Valley. Obviously, hilarity ensues during the trip as Amy Poehler attempts to micromanage every minute. At one point, Maya Rudolph falls off a piano and there’s a golf cart chase scene, so…need I say more?
Grab a bottle (or two), grab your favorite snack, and get ready to Netflix and chill!
That’s all for today!
Enjoy the rest of your hopefully wine-filled week, and don’t forget our free virtual tasting event next Wednesday where we’ll be doing a side-by-side tasting of cabernet sauvignon and talking about women in leadership.
See you next week!
Cheers,
Megumi