Why pinot noirs love Sonoma's Russian River Valley
This issue was published on March 29, 2023.
Happy Wine Wednesday!
We’re here to level up your wine game and celebrate the women who work in wine, all while having a grape time.
Today, we’re exploring Sonoma’s Russian River Valley and its pinot noirs, then talking to Kerith Overstreet, a doctor-turned-winemaker who founded Bruliam Wines. So pour yourself a glass and let’s get our wine nerd on!
The Russian River Valley
Fog, Fluffy Soil, and Pinot Noir
If you love California pinots, you’ve probably had some from the Russian River Valley! With cool fog and its proximity to the Pacific Ocean, this California wine region has become known as one of the most sought after regions for winemaking.
Let’s dive in.
The Russian River Valley AVA (American Viticultural Area) is located at the geographical heart of Sonoma County and, as you may have guessed, hugs the Russian River as it flows out to the Pacific. The 150 square mile wine region was originally planted with grapevines as early as 1817, and the AVA was officially established in 1983. Another unique aspect of this AVA is its 2 sub-regions: Green Valley AVA and Chalk Hill AVA (because learning about wine regions wasn’t too confusing already…)
Volcanic ash from eruptions millions of years ago resulted in a highly desirable soil called Goldridge that is a highlight of this area. This rare and very fine-grain sandy loam (meaning a rich soil that is composed mostly of sand, silt, and a little bit of clay) is known for its excellent drainage and is “light and fluffy” (not my words).
This type of soil is perfect for cool climates, and you’ll also find clay deposits from erosion off of the Sonoma Mountain and Alluvial soils by the river beds (another favorite of grape vines). This clay is what helps the soil hold onto some moisture during the recent drought in California, keeping the vines healthy even without a lot of rain. While the valley is most known for the Goldridge soil, other diverse types of soil helps the production of a diverse array of wines. Show off to your plant and garden-loving friends by talking about loam!
Warning: this may spark a long conversation about different types of soils, so be prepared with a bottle of wine…
Now, onto the world-famous fog –
The Mediterranean climate of the Russian River Valley, available only in about 3% of the world, means that this region is highly unique and considered to be some of the best for cool climate winemaking. The brisk Pacific Ocean nearby sends a cooling breeze and fog to the vineyards as well as an overall cooling effect. This coolness allows the grapes to mature and develop a full flavor, and is also why you’ll need to bring layers if you ever go wine tasting in the area.
Image courtesy of Sonoma County Vintners
One interesting geographical feature about this area is that because of the hills and valleys, each AVA can experience pretty different temperatures throughout the day. For example, the neighboring Alexander Valley AVA to the north and slightly east of the Russian River Valley AVA, known for their cabernet sauvignons, is known as one of the warmest winemaking regions in Northern California.
Lastly, and perhaps most importantly: What are we drinking from the Russian River Valley?
Chardonnay, pinot noir, and zinfandel are the top three varietals produced here, although you’ll also find merlot, cabernet sauvignon, and sauvignon blanc. The cool-climate syrah that is produced also gets plenty of well-deserved attention, and many winemakers are also producing high quality pinot gris and gewürtztraminer. Some popular wineries from the area that you may have heard of include Kendall-Jackson, Rodney Strong, and J Vineyards & Winery.
Join me this week in trying a pinot noir from the Russian River Valley and comparing it to one from the Willamette Valley, which we talked about a couple of weeks ago. While both are considered cool-climate pinots, you’ll probably smell and taste a few differences! Compared to the Willamette Valley, the Russian River Valley does tend to have higher temperatures, less daylight hours, a longer growing season, and less rainfall – not to mention the differences in soil, the literal grapes themselves, and the winemaking process.
Hit reply and let me know which pinots you tried and which one you preferred!
Kerith Overstreet
Former Doctor-Turned-Winemaker
When Kerith was a child, her dad told her that she could be whatever she wanted – “after medical school.” And she did!
Luckily for us, she pivoted to winemaking after completing medical school, residency, and fellowships. She enrolled at UC Davis to study wine and in 2008, she began Bruliam Wines. Now she produces 1,200 cases a year, has produced a 94-point pinot noir and zinfandel, and been featured in magazines like Forbes.
Of course, that’s not all. She’s also donated to over 100 charities since the winery’s inception, is a mother to three children, and has her own estate vineyard in the Russian River Valley (Bruliam also sources grapes from Sonoma County and the Santa Lucia Highlands).
Now that her impressive resume is out of the way…
Merobebe
If you could only drink one type of wine for the rest of your life, what would it be?
Kerith Overstreet
Pinot noir, naturally. I’m biased; it’s my favorite. Pinot noir is aromatic, beautiful, and versatile. If you start with pinot noir, you can make bubbles, rose, or still pinot noir, all deliciously awesome!!
Merobebe
What's your favorite wine and food pairing?
Kerith Overstreet
My most delightful and unusual food and wine pairing is my homemade chocolate almond biscotti dunked in my Rockpile zin (a la vin santo in Italy). Baking spices in the biscotti echo the aromatics from the French oak barrels, and the dark chocolate almonds enhance the mocha notes in the zin.
Merobebe
What (if any) are some skills that you've been able to transfer over from your medical days to making wine and managing a winery?
Kerith Overstreet
I came to winemaking with a strong background in microbiology, basic science, and chemistry. I was never intimidated by winemaking’s more academic bits, like harvest chemistry or oxidation/reduction chemistry. In fact, I am more intimidated having to hook up a pump and ensure the triclover fitting is tight enough that nothing leaks from the racking valve!
I often joke that harvest mornings are a lot like internal medicine rounds. You arrive at the winery, immediately pop the covers off your open top tanks, peer inside, and take a big sniff. Ask yourself, does everything look OK and smell OK? It’s not dissimilar from seeing your inpatients, checking wounds, bandages, and your patient’s demeanor.
It’s critical to monitor your tank’s temperature, which always reminds me of the chief residents asking, “Any fevers overnight?” Before I leave the winery, I make a second set of “afternoon rounds,” checking on my tanks all over again. I think this drive to be a detailed observer and measure, graph, and document the evolution of a fermentation is probably borne of my medical training.
Fermentation evolves in a predictable way, just like a common cold, healing from a broken bone, or recovering from surgery. If you’re a careful observer, you’ll catch any permutations or deviations before they ignite into bigger problems.
My neurology professor used to admonish us, “Don’t just do something. Stand there!” I try to remember his mantra in the throes of harvest, when I am feeling impatient or anxious about a fermentation lot. Perhaps doing nothing more than patiently observing would best serve both the wine and my mental health!! Standing by and doing nothing is often the toughest part of winemaking.
Merobebe
Not only are you a former doctor and a winemaker, but you also handle the marketing, sales, and other day to day aspects of owning a winery plus you have three children! What advice do you have for other parents (or wannabe-parents) who may be struggling with work-life balance? How can we all reach for our professional dreams while taking time for our loved ones?
Kerith Overstreet
Boy, you’re generous to think I’d have the solution to this age-old dilemma. Everyone is busy; our day is limited to 24 hours. Ask for help when you need it- I’m not very good at that one. But working parents require help with childcare, toting kids from one after school activity to another, and probably even with cooking or cleanup. Figure out where your physical presence is most critical and prioritize those moments. For example, I’ve felt comfortable having a nanny pick up my kids from school, provide an after-school snack, and take them to [fill-in-the-blank], when I needed to attend a winery event or tasting. We are both competent and careful driving carpool or slicing apples. But only I can speak about my winery in the most passionate, engaged, and authentic way.
Ah, and communicate, especially with teenagers! I won’t know that you need me to bake cupcakes for that fundraiser (tomorrow!) or drive to you to the city for a concert unless you tell me in advance, so that time is protected on my calendar. The sooner you have the date for that away swim meet in Sacramento, the sooner I turn off the Tock tasting room reservations and be present to cherish the best parts and more important parts of parenthood.
And, lest I forget: work in the cracks. I always have my laptop packed in my tote bag. I used to reply to emails, process POs, and write marketing copy from my minivan, waiting in the after school pickup line.
Merobebe
What challenges have you faced as a woman in the male-dominated field of medicine and winemaking, and how have you overcome them?
Kerith Overstreet
I think we can agree that almost every woman has faced gender bias in some capacity at some juncture in her career, hopefully on the less painful end of the spectrum.
Oh (sigh), let’s see, I was once at an industry tasting when a gentleman asked me to bring him a glass of water; he assumed I was service staff. Generally speaking, I am not great about confrontation, so I simply walk away. Make like Elsa; let it go. I have walked away from fruit contracts, distributors, and even professional opportunities because I felt devalued and belittled. Why waste your time feeling like a defeated impostor and defending your credentials against a bully when you can choose to work with allies who champion what you do and your good work.
Now that I’m old(er), I am confident enough to ignore much of the chatter. Please don’t mansplain winemaking terms and techniques and opinions unless you are a veteran winemaker. If you’re a random Joe at a public tasting, I don’t care for your opinion on native fermentation or the square footage and rack count of your personal cellar.
Merobebe
Last question! What were some of the most surprising aspects of opening a winery?
Kerith Overstreet
Making consistent, high quality, well scoring wine is easy. Selling wine is much harder.
Learn more about Kerith’s story at www.bruliamwines.com or across all social media channels @bruliamwines.
Get a wine-related movie or book pairing for your weekend.
Today’s pairing is Doctors and Distillers: The Remarkable Medicinal History of Beer, Wine, Spirits, and Cocktails by Camper English.
This fascinating book dives into the history of alcohol and medicine, exploring how innovations in each led to a change in the other. Going all the way back to when beer and wine were used to provide nutrition and hydration (...don’t they still?) to how modern cocktails like the Old-Fashioned or Gin and Tonic were used as healing remedies, this book covers it all. Get ready to dive into the journeys of scientists, alchemists, and traveling physicians to learn all about how your home bar and medicine cabinet were one and the same until very recently.
See the reviews and buy Doctors and Distillers from a local bookstore here.
Share the wine wisdom with your friends!
If you enjoyed what you read, please consider forwarding it on to your fellow wine-loving friends! After all, sharing wine & wine wisdom is the best kind of caring…
Next week, we’ll be talking about why wine and cheese go together so well (and yes, it will make you hungry so make sure you stock up on your favorite cheese this weekend!) and talking to Stacey Gibson, a multi-hyphenate who is a sommelier, the current President of Woman in Wine, Oregon, and more.
Have a wine-derful week and see you next Wednesday!
Cheers,
Megumi